Tesla Alignment

Let's just call this alignment for dummies (me). When changing suspension elements to alter baseline alignment specifications I've found it best to get my own way to measure both camber and toe. Most alignment shops to not want to spend half a day with you while you try different upper suspension arm lengths in search of a good balance between camber and toe adjustment range.

The first item on the agenda is building a set of toe bars for the car so you can easily measure front and rear toe. On a race car you would go to great lengths to build a set of polls that could be bolted or pined to the car in the exact same location every time and would travel well in the trailer without getting trashed. That is all fine and dandy when you are going to use them four or five times a weekend during an event but way overkill for some street car work. All you need for a street car is a couple of eight foot 1X2 furring strips, some string and some rubber bands. The following are pictures of a set I made for my Model S.

The quick step by step instructions go something like this - Go to Lowes or Home Depot and pick up three 8 foot 1" X 2" furring strips and a pack of four #10-28 X 2 1/2" screws and nuts (cost under $10 for me today) - Align the ends of two of the strips and drill a small hole about and inch in in the center then use the bit to pin the two pieces together (see pic) - measure 77 1/2" from the pin and make a mark then drill through both boards at that mark... Try to drill perpendicular on both these holes to maintain the same centerline no matter which way the string exit these holes - take the third strip and cut four legs then drill a 3/16" hole on one leg as shown below... You may want to add a 1/4 of an inch to the measurement shown as I was just below the center line of the wheel when I was done - use the drilled leg as a template to drill the other three legs - assemble the legs on the two strips and lay them against the front and rear of the car - the next task is to measure the distance between the front and rear assemblies (toe bars from now on) and make them the same.. I ended up with 194 1/2".. It is best to have help here as the toe bars will fall over easily... This gets the bars parallel and I assume you'll do your best to get them perpendicular to the car although this is not super critical - now thread four pieces of string, one through each of the small holes in the end of the toe bars, and tie the off at the toe bar so they will not come off... Make sure the string exits the hole without disruption - the next step is a fun one and is best done with two helpers... cut the front (or rear) string on each side about mid way down the car then tie a big fat rubber band on the end.. Now tie a fishing hook (with the tip cut off) or similar hook to the rear string such that the string is under a reasonable amount of tension (the tension will tend to pull the bars down thus your two helpers). One both sides are done, the tension on both sides will hold the bars against the car and upright :)

You now have toe bars that must be positioned. Pick your poison on the order of events but you need them to be the same distance apart front to rear on both sides and the strings equal distance from the front and rear hubs on both sides of the car. You will go around in circles a few times until you are happy with the set up but you will end up with two strings parallel to the car's line of travel and right in the middle of the wheel. You now measure the front and rear of each rim against the string and you know how much each is pointing in at the front of the wheel from the direction of travel (also known as Toe In).

More to come... My numbers and measuring Camber.

Alignment
Toe Stringing
			Front			Ft to Rear	194.5"
	2.265	0.139	-0.023	-0.162	1.693	Front Hub	3.257
	2.126	Left Front	Net Front	Rt Front	1.855	Rear Hub	2.946
						Rim lip Dia	22.25



	1.398	0.063	0.045	-0.018	1.435
	1.335	Left Rear	Net Rear	Rt Rear	1.453
			Rear